Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Thunchan parambiley hornbill !!

I happened to be at Thunchan parambu sometime back- it is the spot where father of Malayalam language lived, considered a sacred place. Unfortunately the day I landed in Thirur (malapuram) it was hartal-meaning no hotels no nothing. Fortunately got a room next to the railway station and just about manage some food for the day. Thunchan parambu happened to be about 2-3km from where I stayed so decided to walk. I reached there at about 7.30am, the fellow at the gate said it will open only by 9 or much later (the timing mentioned at the gate though was 8.30). So I decided to walk around. The place has predominantly Muslim population, most conversion happened during early 1920s (referred to as moplah rebellion), when the landlords (mostly elite Hindus) aligned with Britishers and did untold misery. This led to an uprising that got communal. Walking across the place was a pleasant experience, though gulf money has led to some atrocious buildings across kerala but the houses I encountered were aesthetically done. Youngsters were found to be keen on badminton. With so much of greenery and silence (thank the hartal) I found the walk agreeable. Finally could locate a small teashop next to the mosque (quite a beautiful small simple structure I thought, unlike the atrocious crude mosques I have seen in recent times), my favorite breakfast any day is puttu kadala (only next to appam stew though, idlis are distant third!!), so within few minutes my tummy was full. Cost 12Rs.

By the time I was back at the gate it was about nine and the gate was still closed, thought of sitting on the bricks nearby, few minutes elapsed and the fellow inside probably took pity or something told me to come in and not to worry about gate opening and other formalities. It was when I was at the pond that I heard the flutter on the huge tree nearby and lo a hornbill, a grey hornbill to be specific. And yes Great Indian Hornbill (it is a spectacular looking bird, sadly I have seen only in zoos. One day I hope to see it in wild) is the state bird of Kerala (and Arunachal Pradesh). Grey hornbills are abundantly found throughout India even in urban areas with big trees.

Hornbills are peculiar looking birds and anyone who sees one will definitely give a closer look. They have huge bills, in some species they are few feet long-helps in foraging and defending. Although it looks cumbersome but they are very light, most species have a casque mounted over the upper mandible, the reason why they are referred to hornbill. Grey hornbills have smaller casque (Malabar grey hornbill endemic specie to Western Ghats is devoid of casque and found in hills unlike grey hornbills). Hornbills can fly long distances but are quite clumsy and create quite a flutter. They are typically large-headed, with thin necks, broad wings, and long tails. I guess the distinctive feature of hornbills has to be the way they rear the young, the female holds herself captive in the tree trunk, the hole of nesting cavity is closed from inside with a slit kept open for male to pass food- a defense against predators like monkeys and snakes. I recall seeing these in one of the TV channels where they showed these in details with miniature cameras, it was amazing. Hornbills are fussy eaters and spend great deal of time visiting trees and checking out the ripeness of fruits, choosing only those that are appropriate to the taste. Predominantly frugivores they do supplement their diet with small reptiles during breeding. Presence of hornbills is an indicator to healthy nature of forest and ecosystem of the region. Certain communities in Malaysia consider hornbills as representation of purity.

Malayalam the renaissance language: this blogger’s mother tongue happens to be Malayalam- the first words I learned and spoke, the association is embryonic. Though I am quite comfortable in speaking and can manage to read (reading fiction is a challenge but yes short stories and in particular poems) writing in Malayalam is still where I stopped when I was a kid that is at munaam padam level. Few days back I was at the place where Malayalam language took its root: Thunchan parambu.

Malayalam is one of the youngest languages in the world but the socio-cultural contribution of this tiny state where this language is spoken is nothing short of spectacular. It was Ezthuthachan (literal meaning would be father of writing, the great teacher) who evolved a new texture for Malayalam language, mingling the Sanskrit and Dravidian streams into a simple medium capable of interpreting different nuances of feelings in a sublime level attaining high degree of aesthetic sensibility. Ezhuthachan (real name being Thunchathu Ramanujan) lived in the later half of 16th century, his contribution to Malayalam is to the scale of what Homer is to Greek literature and Chaucer to English literature. He is regarded as father of Malayalam. Ezhuthachan was basically a bard, who traveled extensively to Tamil and Andhra lands and learned different languages and delved deep into the Upanishads. Bhakti movement wherein the common people were involved had a significant impact on him. He rendered epics Ramayana and Mahabharata in a simple musical style accessible to common people. He wrote hari nama keerthanam that popularized 51 letter alphabet that forms the basis of modern Malayalam. Incredibly he adopted a parrot as a narrator for these, the reason for it being referred to as Kilipattu-bird songs. These are even to this day very popular and could be heard at homes, this blogger has listened to these millions of times particularly during Ramayana masam. Ezhuthachan helped unleash the creative energy that can still be experienced, creating a medium that is a source of emotional integration and evolved sensibilities. He gave common people the meaning of words that need be worshiped and respected. He opened the world of words to people. What an incredible man.

Thousands of children are brought for ritualistic initiation to the art of learning at the birth place of this great teacher and poet every year. It is believed that he taught under old Nux Vomica tree that still exists with the ancient tank (the pic herein). It inscribes the first letters: Hari shree ganapthayae namaha. During Thunchan festival (held every year during the month of Jan-Feb) the iron stylus of the poet with which he wrote his poems is taken out in a grand procession. This year this blogger will try to be part of the festival.